More than two months of happiness on my own in England and Walles. My first solo road trip that will allow me to discover how nice it is to follow its own desires in a gorgeous country. I really felt in love with its landscapes and its kind people. My trip starts from London, goes to the East Cost, crossing the main National Parks : Peak District, North York Moors to Whitby, Yorkshire Dales, Lake District, Anglesey, Snowdonia, Pembrokeshire Coast in Walles, then the West Coast to Land’s End, a stop in Bath before Dover’s cliffs.
This is the English text. A French one is available here : Fantastic road trip in the UK – French
What an idea ?
I’m in a 10 months training period, very lucky to be able to have such a break. Not so bad to be a civil servant ! I wish I can learn English. I choose an on-line method, because I’m not keen of going back to school, and I really prefer managing my time as I see fit.
Why choosing the UK instead of relaxing at home, enjoying my sweet home, my beloved, whithout any worry… ?
In fact, resting is something I can’t do. When I’m home, there’s always something to do : a furniture to clean, a room to tidy up, something to sand or to paint. I’m not saying I don’t like doing these tasks, but having a 10 months training period only happens once in a career. I don’t want to realise, once finished, that I didn’t enjoy, that I did nothing more than usually. We only have one life.
I’ll go during the October school holidays, mainely for two reasons :
- Being home in September, I’ll be able to help my children back to school and manage their busy schedules. My daughter is moving to an internship for the first time and my son is joining secondary school, these are two major steps for them.
- Lilian has a few days off. We’ll go visiting London and Harry Potter’s land all together. After that, my honey and my children will go back, and I’ll stay with the campervan and the dog.
What do I need ?
- I need new passports, for me and the kids. Be careful, this process takes several months.
- For my training program, I’ll need a connected computer, which I have. I’ll recieve my attendance certificates at home, Lilian will scan them and send them to me. I also need a new phone, whish is a new step for me, as I never needed a connected phone, I’ve always been using a very simple one. I also check my bank terms and my car insurance.
- There is no longer any quarantine for dogs, 6A will only have to visit the vet to be allowed to travel with me.
Is everything OK ? Any more doubts ?
Of course they are doubts. When you take a decision, there’s always a time of hesitation, asking yourself if you’re true, if it wouldn’t be more reasonable to give up. And there are many reasons for giving up…
- I’m going to miss my family. Perhaps they will miss me too. It won’t be easy for my son, who’s going to be on his own in the morning and in the evening, until his dad’s back home.
- My parents need me. I won’t be usefull when I’ll be across the Channel, I should stay.
- I won’t manage to drive on the left side. I’m gonna crash the van.
- The car will break down, I won’t be able to get help.
- Life is expensive in the UK, I’m gonna get broken.
- The weather’s going to be cold and rainy. It’s going to be tough. And if I catch a cold, what can I do in the van, with my dog ?
- Being alone in my van isn’t safe. I’m gonna get mugged.
- Having the dog with me is not a good idea. She’s gonna get bored. I won’t be able to have enough walks with her. It would be easier to be on my own, leaving her at home, where she’s got a big garden. Or staying at home, walking as we’re used to…
As you my guess, there’s always a little voice telling you not to try, being sensible. And an other voice drawing you to the unknown. But we only have one life !
Story of our family week in England available here I have perfectly bilingual (text in French).
My family’s back to France, because of school. This is the beginning of my adventure on my own, or nearly on my own, since I kept 6A with me.
Let’s start, but on the left side !
My family’s gone… last hugs, last kisses, and here am I, alone with my car keys in my hand, my dog gently waiting for me. So, let’s go… My honey told me : « Get your GPS ready before driving, so that you don’t have everything to do in the same time ». He was true. But I don’t know exacly where I want to go, I just know that I want to go North East first. I put « Saffron Walden » on my phone because it’s supposed to be an interesting medieval little town. I won’t stay on this airport parking any longer, I don’t know if it’s free or not. So, I prefer the ticket to be as cheap as possible. Let’s go away !
Step one : driving on the left side, without any co-driver, yet. I once practiced when my beloved was by my side, so that he could give me advices and tell me if cars were coming from the right. That was brillant, because the most difficult is to manage everything new at the same time. Driving on the left side is not so difficult, even with a van. Even giving way to traffic coming from your left is easy, because crossroads with priority to the left do not exist ! Turnarounds ? Easy-peasy. Well, turning is easy, but remembering to look on your right is the most difficult. I forget to when I’m not focused ! The hardest job is to follow your GPS when focused on the way you’re learning to drive. I sometimes need to turn several times in the same turnaround, or to change lanes at the last moment, which is OK here, as British drivers are very polite and give you easy way. I must confess I sometimes take the wrong way, and drive during many miles until finding my way, because there are not many carparks and nowhere to turn around. No need to hurry, keep cool. I’m pleased to getting used to the British phlegm !
After leaving London, I drive over a hudge bridge. No toll, but signs let me guess I have to pay online within 24 hours, I’ll try not to forget the website name. I’m focused on the way I have to drive, I’d rather stop to pay at a desk, but I don’t see any. Anyway, if we were supposed to pay, we would see desks or things like that, wouldn’t we ? In the evening, I try to pay online, but I have no signal. The day after, I have many things to do. When I remember I have to pay, it’s too late, more than 24 hours ago. Many days later, I’ll be told that I had 48 hours, not only 24. And some French travelers posted that they received a hudge ticket for not paying the toll. Lilian tells me to ask for paying, I try to. But there is no help in French (whereas many other languages are offered). I must wait for a letter i’ll recieve in France. That means I’ll be overcharged. I prefer to pay online, even if it’s too late. Fortunately, I’ll never recieve such a letter, but I’ve been very worried.
First sightseeing breaks
Driving to Norfolk, I first stop in a small city called Saffron Walden. It’s nice, a small market sells everything to prepare sandwiches and a nail clipper, having a nail clipper is very important !
For my first night, I choose Knettyshall forest. It’s the first time I see so many pheasants, squirrels, deers and hares in one walk. So much wildlife, 6A (on lead, so that she doesn’t disturb the fauna) doesn’t know where to look. I need my headlamp to finish my walk and I have rouble finding my car again. My friend Valérie would scold me but, in my defense, with the time zone difference and the winter time switch, we lost two hours. The night begins at five. I must remember that I must be back to my car at 4 :30.
In wintertime on the road, go to bed with the chickens and smell like a fox !
4 :30, it’s very early to remain in the van, but it suits me, because I’m here to work on my English. I have all my evening to study. I get used to take pictures of all the information signs I cross and to look for translations when I’m back in my van. It’s interesting to learn more about the sites that I visit. I also have several books written in English, that teach me more familiar words. And when I have enough batteries, I even have the chance to watch an English-language movie. In the evening, I also call my family. Owing to WhatsApp, I feel as if I was close to them. Owing to the homeworks I do with my children too !
As far as heating is concerned, I sometimes don’t drive enough to recharge my batteries and I try to keep some power to turn the heating up in the morning. That’s why my evenings may be very cold. I put several layers on and I finally wear all my clothes, my coat and my hat. I didn’t bring enough warm clothes, thus I need all of them and can’t often wash them. I sleep with my clothes because it’s cold. After a few days, I don’t even make a difference between night and day clothes. It’s too cold to get changed anyway. I don’t wear any bra any longer, it’s too uncomfortable for the night. I don’t use many laundries or showers, when I do it makes me feel better, I can try to guess how an homeless person can feel. I most of the time wash myself with wipes or in public toilets, where I can fortunately often find hot water. It’s too cold outside, I don’t have the will to use my solar shower, that I brought however. Putting on clothes that are not clean is a kind of a shame when you’ve just washed yourself. My smell is everywhere, I hope that people I meet don’t smell it too much…
As I remain inside, I don’t cook often. During the summer, we enjoy living outside, drinking, cooking little salads, and we do the washing in a river or outside with the jerrican. The diner is one of the pleasures of the day. Here, I try to have no dish to wash, so that I don’t use water (difficult to find) and I prefer not to be seen in the evening, I don’t go out of the car. It’s easier to eat freeze-dried meals. After the meal, the cup becomes a badpan. It’s very very roots, not many friends of mine would enjoy it, only Virgi maybe ? So, why choosing such rough conditions ?
Money, money, money…
The reason is money. Such a journey is expensive, even with a van. Crossing with the ferry, even when you booked in advance, costs … . When I was with my familiy, we went into campings, visited museums, took the train to go to London. Visiting the capital can be cheap : many museums are free, monuments are impressive from outside, famous quarters too, access to double floor busses is included in our train tickets and there are many cheap restaurants.
The East Coast, in the area of Norwich
I reach Caister on Sea, east from Norwich, to walk on its large sandy beaches and along its small cliffs. Feeling of freedom ! On the benches, plates and flowers remind us that others before us liked to observe these places. This makes the moment even more precious.
I find a beautiful nature spot on the edge of a river. Absolute calm.
Sherwood Forest
I’m attracted to the Sherwood Forest. The place is tourist, hiking trails are dotted with explanatory signs, there is plenty of choice, but the large oak is unavoidable.
Peak District Park
The road to Peak District Park is beautiful. I stop in a dead end in the mountains, in which vans and motorhomes park one behind the other. The view is splendid and it is reassuring to have neighbors, we chat a little before locking up for the night and preparing the hike for the next day. I like the place so much that I stay there several days, it’s nice to take small habits.
Do you speak English?
I don’t want to just hike and I need to practice my English, what about beeing useful ? I go to a care center to offer my services as a volunteer.
I can not get hired at the care center, because of a heavy protocol, but the staff who welcomes me takes the time to direct me to other addresses. So, after research, I find a food bank in which I chat with lovely grannies who are knitting.
I am offered to participate in a chatty cafe, I go there the next day despite the beautiful weather that would invite more to hike than to lock myself in a church, but I am really motivated! I attach 6A to the outside, but she won’t stay there long. They ask me very quickly if this adorable dog is mine and I am ordered to bring her inside, on the carpet, where she will be offered good cakes. Yes, they are like that, the British!
I spend two hours trying to understand conversations. When people talk to me, it’s okay, but when people talk to each other, it’s something else! I look for my words, my speed is slow, but my interlocutors are patient and very generous. They offer me coffee, a delicious homemade pastry, soup and bread for the evening, while apologizing for not having dog biscuits! But by the way, didn’t I come to help others?
Delighted with this experience, I continue the following days to locate the chatty cafes, they are regularly advertised on church displays, but appointments rarely correspond to my dates of passage. And I feel embarrassed because I don’t help, and eat what is cooked for the homeless. I change my strategy, I type «hiking group» followed by where I am on a search engine. And I quickly come across the Ramblers calendar: a group of hikers who organize outings for its members. New people are welcome. A walk is planned the next day not far from where I am. I try my luck: I call the organizer and ask him if a little French girl traveling with her dog can join them for a day. With pleasure, you’re welcome! I love English people!
The coast to Whitby
I thought I was at the northernmost point of my adventure, to stay in mild temperatures, and planned to head to Wales. But a hiker recommends nice places further north, I want to trust her. This is also what I love in this lifestyle: nothing is established, we let ourselves drift according to our intuitions, our desires and sometimes our needs too. I’ll have to take a shower someday…
York: very pretty city, with its magnificent cathedral and well-frequented medieval streets.
Byland Abbey, north of York.
The charming fishing village of Robin Hood’s Bay in North Yorkshire and the surrounding cliffs.
Another pretty little fishing town: Whitby.
Your contact is not available…
Tuesday night, impossible to call or connect! The day was very wet, I think my phone took water. My computer also refuses to work since the day before. So I spend my day looking for someone who can fix it for me. Not easy when you no longer have internet to do your research or to guide you by GPS. At 3pm, I get my phone repaired and at 4pm, at the other end of the city, my computer with a brand new hard drive. Proud enough to have managed to manage, I will finally be able to reassure my family, when my phone tells me that I have exhausted my mobile data. So today, another day of research, to recharge my English Sim cards. It’s not easy. Leaving the last shop, I am finally operational, at least enough to launch my GPS until a spotnight. Once posed, I can finally call my darlings. Oh no, no network where I settled for the night (or is it the new Sim card of my phone that does not work?) Fortunately, my router gives me wifi, which allows me to finally give news. Oh the new technologies…
Yorkshire Dales
Another fabulous park, which I was advised by a hiker I met in the Peak District Park who guesses that I love wild places: the Yorkshire Dales, she thinks I will love it and she is not mistaken. I discover a very isolated country, populated almost exclusively by shepherds and sheep. The roads are very narrow, you can only cross in certain places. Sometimes you have to stop to let the sheep pass or to open yourself a barrier… but what a magic of landscapes!
I love it! I go to see the waterfalls of Aygsfarth and the cliffs of Malham Cove.
Lake District Park
Lake District Park is described everywhere as the most beautiful park in the country. This is not the first impression I have, the traffic is dense, I hardly find a place to stop. I spend two nights in a busy roadside parking lot, if not better. But the hikes keep their promises, especially since I do several of them in good company. The Ramblers are very friendly, and it is not unpleasant to follow the group without having to worry about the route.
I do not go as far north as I would have liked, the winding and very busy roads do not make me want to go further, especially since the weather is cooler and cooler. I take the road to the south, towards Wales.
Wales
First stop in Wales in the atypical town of Llandudno, its long promenade and Victorian pier, overlooked by Le Great Orme, a rocky promontory of all beauty. I thought I would spend an hour there, I finally walk there all day long, with the sun please!
The small port town of Conwy is worth a visit, for its castle and fortified walls, which can be explored on foot. Amongst the fortified cities advised to visit here, it is the one I liked the most.
Around Betws y Coed in Snowdonia Park.
Today, I wanted to climb the Snowden, the highest peak in Wales, but the weather is not good, so I prefer to wait, since I have the immense privilege to be able to take my time. So, a little walk in the alleys of Caernarfon, the big sister of Conwy, and along its waterfront, where I choose to rest for the night.
Oh how well I waited! The weather is perfect today for THE walk in Snowdonia. A summit at around 1000m, but which looks like the Alpes more than like the Vosges. Tired but happy!
Another beautiful day, that I spend on the island of Anglesey. Here is the village with the longest name in Europe, quite unpronounceable. On the point, impressive cliffs shelter a lighthouse that can be visited in summer.
First night frosts, it is 2° outside this morning when waking, 5° in the van… 4 consecutive days of sunshine, this is the price to pay! Last walk in the Snowdonia Park yesterday, with the overhanging « precipice walk ».
At Cwm Yr Eglwys, from the Celtic church, only the bell tower is remaining. Haven of tranquility. Panoramic spotnight… it’s going to be freezing!
Pembrokeshire Coast Park offers sensational views, in mesmerizing calm. St Davids Cathedral is surprisingly lively, with its Christmas market.
Walk to St David’s head, still in Pembrokeshire Park, in order to see wildlife (it seems there are a lot of seals and dolphins here). I only found nice hikers. I was told that the Welsh were special and indeed they are: they smile and talk to all the people they meet, what a happiness!
After miles and miles of walking from the Stack Rocks, in a desolate moor swept by the winds, lined with vertiginous cliffs (how can I do too much?) my perseverance is rewarded: I see the dorsal fin of 2 dolphins and the tip of the nose of a seal. It makes my day!
Beautiful sandy beaches at Three Cliffs Bay on the Gower Peninsula.
Too much need to wash! I find a good Airbnb plan that meets all my criteria: 1. With bath 2. Accepts dogs. 3. Homestay (I don’t want independent accommodation, I’m here to speak English) 4. On my route 5. Cheap. When I tell my boyfriend that I found a great Spanish hostel, he says to me: « I’m sure they are going to tell you, when arriving, that there is no hot water. » Do you know what? When I arrive, I am immediately introduced to the bathroom… so much I stink… « Sorry there’s no hot water for the bath, we are waiting for an oil delivery »! Me, I do not disassemble: « not serious, I will boil water in a pan » but no, no need, there is an electric shower, here I am saved (well rather them!) Ah, I rediscover the happiness of washing, to be warm and to sleep in a real bed… before taking the road to the waterfalls of Hgwd Isaf Clun Gwyn (yes, it is still Wales) in the Brecon Beacons National Park.
Ascent of the Pen y Fan, the summit of the Brecon Beacons still in Wales.
I’m going to see river otters! It was not planned, I followed the advice of a fisherman met during a bucolic walk at sunrise (translate: « by going to poo »… see our article on the subject Mon caca à moi). Otters are so cute, especially when you have the chance to observe them in their natural environment. I hope you will manage to see them in the photos (because I did not succeed, even in real life!)
It’s freezing in Cornwall
Since I’ve been in the south of England, the traffic is much denser. I do not like this heavy traffic, but I have to get used to it, it will be so until Dover. I hesitate to go to Cornwall, because it makes me make a big detour and the weather forecast is not good, with a wave of polar cold. But Cornwall attracts me, I read good in my books, so I drive anyway to the end of the end of the western coast of England: Land’s End.
I discover beautiful cliffs that shelter a shipwreck and that lead to the sandy beaches of Sennen.
I also see that Mont St Michel crossed the English Channel and I visit Polperro, a lovely little fishing village. In hindsight, if I had to do it again, I would do without this detour, even if it was pretty, because if I had to choose between Wales and Cornwall, I prefered Wales. But as I love adventure, I had to see for myself, and this detour will allow me to see my limits.
This morning, three lads came around my van to shake it like a plum tree. If you had seen them, you might have wanted to slap them, I would have kissed them. Ok I tell you. I have RV this morning for a hike with Mariam and Simon, that I look forward to meeting, because on the phone they seemed very friendly. I leave early, because I have 1h30 drive to arrive at the RV point. The car is frozen, you have to scratch, the road is white to the highway, but then clear. Well, that’s what I think. Because once I get off the highway, it’s more and more slippery. I arrive on a narrow climb when a motorist signals me to stop. I have no choice, I stop the vehicle on the climb. The guy comes to explain to me that it is impossible to continue. I put the handbrake, but it doesn’t hold, the car slips as soon as I let go of the brake pedal. Here I am stuck. A guy comes to see me, seeing that I don’t move anymore. He advises me to go back and turn around in the descent. Glups! As I step back, the car gets sideways… better and better. The two young people push the car and I leave, but this time my right wheels come out of the asphalt. To put them back, the two guys, joined by a third one, start to shake the van a blow in front, a blow in the back, and hop, here I am on the rails. The rest of the maneuver is one of the guys doing it. He holds my steering wheel by the open window while reassuring me: « You will be fine » and giving me instructions concerning the brakes. I barely have time to thank my saviors that here I am again in the right direction for the highway, that I will not leave so soon… The first one who still criticizes English people, beware of him!
Bath and Dover
After my icy episode, I need a break. I stop in a forest which is criss-crossed with very busy educational trails. The English love to walk with family, it’s nice.
I visit the pretty city of Bath, after having tested the showers of the highway, normally rather planned for the truckers than for the tourists, but not for the women, since it is necessary to go through the men’s toilet. With a little nerve, it’s ok.
The first thing you see when you arrive in England by ferry: the impressive white chalk cliffs of Dover. I dreamed of approaching them, yet a wish that comes true.
Last image of Dover, then the ferry and Calais. I pass through Sangatte, where I meet unfortunate migrants who wander the streets surrounded by high fences surmounted by barbed wire. I would like to take my backpack and my dog, and go hiking as I do everywhere. I would very much like to meet migrants, talk with them. But would I be welcomed? And CRS vans at every corner deter me. So I go my way, regretfully, I will have to come back. I don’t know yet but this imaginary meeting will take place in May, thanks to a book that a friend lent me: «Entre deux mondes» which will make me discover the association «Care4Calais», but that’s another story.
So, finally, was I right to leave?
Of course I was! What a fabulous trip! I had a real crush for this country, for many reasons.
First of all, the beauty of the scenery. I never thought nature would be so flamboyant here. The green hilly pastures embellished with groves, hedges and old stone walls, old forests, hilly peaks, long sandy beaches, jagged cliffs, are so many contrasting landscapes with paths that are very well maintained. A paradise for hiking! The villages, meanwhile, are very pleasant to visit. Always very clean (here, no dog poop on the ground, all the owners are very disciplined), they are full of flowery houses, thatched roofs, very well arranged small gardens, cottage atmosphere guaranteed.
When you go for a walk, the wildlife regularly shows up. I can no longer count squirrels, deers, pheasants, hares… and I’m thrilled when I get a chance to see grouses, seals and dolphins.
People are incredibly sympathetic. I have never spent a meal alone at my table without a neighbor starting a conversation with me or even inviting me to his table. While hiking, all walkers greet each other and exchange a few words, or even share a part of the way. The golden palm goes to the Welsh, who cross you with the same smile as if you have been knowing them for ages.
With the dog, what a success. There are many passers-by who ask me permission to pet her and I no longer count the traders or ticket officers who offer me biscuits for dogs! To say that this country is dog-friendly is an understatement… I discover ice cream and advent calendars for dogs, restaurants that provide blankets for the comfort of our furry friends. I have no regrets for taking 6A with me. She enjoys our walks, the senses awake with the sheeps and squirrels she sees everywhere and she makes lots of friends, allowing me to easily engage in conversation with the people we meet.
Written by Sophie on 01/02/2025
Hoping that these few lines have pleased you.
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